Election Cake
01 Nov, 16
On Election Day, you probably vote in a hurry during your lunch break or coming home from work. Or maybe you take advantage of early voting to avoid long lines on November 8th. But in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, Election Day was not to be rushed—it was a national holiday. And voters celebrated with bonfires, whiskey, and cake.
Election Cakes were dense, loaf-like desserts made in large communal ovens, packed with brandy, wine, fruits and spices. Originally known as “muster cakes” when they were prepared for American soldiers being “mustered” by British forces, after the Revolution the name took on a new meaning. The popular cakes became an essential part of the Election Day party and an incentive for voting. Women, who could not vote at the time, could thus still take part in the civic process by “mustering” men to the polls.
This year, Election Cakes have enjoyed a renaissance due to the efforts of a group of bakers helmed by Susannah Gebhart and Maia Surdham of Old World Levain (OWL) Bakery in Asheville, NC. Gebhart and Surdham decided that the dark political climate of the 2016 election might be brightened by bringing back the dessert, reminding voters that elections should be joyful. Their slogan? “Make America Cake Again,” coined by fellow baker and food writer Richard Miscovich.
Bakeries all over the country are taking part in the campaign, all with a different spin on the recipe. All take some inspiration from historical recipes, which use natural leavening (a sourdough culture rather than baking powder or soda) and some combination of alcohol, fruits and spices. The earliest recorded recipe for Election Cake, penned by Amelia Simmons in 1796, used 30 quarts of flour, ten pounds of butter, fourteen pounds of sugar, and an ample amount of brandy. The contemporary bakers take a lighter approach, creating Bundt cakes that appear delicate despite the dense flours used. Some recipes use whiskey or brandy; others are simply flavored by fruits and spices.
This Election Day, get into the voting spirit by baking your own Election Cake or buying one from a participating bakery. A portion of the proceeds goes to the League of Women Voters in support of voting rights. Let’s remember that voting is a privilege and a cause for celebration (and cake)!